With almost two thirds of Peru being classified as being within Amazonia, there are numerous entry points to the ‘selva’. However, the two most popular starting points for a Peruvian Amazon adventure are the cities of Puerto Maldonado in Southern Peru, and Iquitos in the North.
A common question, then, is which one is ‘better’. An understandable, but very tricky, question!
Below we analyse the differences according to various criteria. In areas as large, diverse and biologically-complex as these, it is necessarily a little simplistic, but we hope it will help in your decision-making.
Location:
Puerto Maldonado is the capital of the Department of Madre de Dios, which borders the Department of Cusco. It lies at an altitude of 183 m (600 ft) above sea level, at the confluence of the Tambopata and Madre de Dios rivers.
Iquitos is the capital of the enormous Department of Loreto, which is by far the largest of Peru’s 24 departments. It is nearly the size of Japan by land area … and more than 50% bigger than the entire United Kingdom!
Iquitos lies at an altitude of 106 m (348 ft) above sea level, at the confluence of the Nanay, Itaya and Amazon rivers.
While the difference in altitude between the two cities may seem negligible (77 m / 252 ft), in Amazonian terms it is significant and points to the fact that Puerto Maldonado is closer to the Andes Mountains than Iquitos. This impacts the river types, as we discuss below.
Cities:
Eiffel’s Casa de Fierro in Iquitos’ main square.
Of the two cities, Iquitos is the more interesting. It is larger than Puerto Maldonado, with a richer history that is evident in a few architectural vestiges, such as the Casa de Fierro (Iron House), designed by Gustave Eiffel, and the remaining early 20th Century mansions built by the Rubber barons of the period.
Iquitos has two good museums, and the unique floating market of Belen, so spending time in the city before or after a lodge visit or cruise, is well worthwhile.
Conservation Areas:
Puerto Maldonado is the gateway to the fantastic Tambopata National Reserve and any tourism will almost certainly include visits here.
Bordering Tambopata is the Bahuaja-Sonene National Park, which contains Peru’s only tropical humid savannah, in conjunction with low Amazon rainforest. The bulk of the park is in the Department of Puno, and it is difficult to get to, so receives very few visitors.
Madre de Dios is also home to some of Manu National Park which stretches up to over 4,000 m (13,000 ft) above sea level into the Department of Cusco. Most visitors approach Manu from the city of Cusco, though as they wish to explore the flora and fauna - especially birdlife - of its cloud forest.
Therefore, when we are talking about the Amazon around Puerto Maldonado, we are referring to the area in and around Tambopata Reserve.
From Iquitos, it is less clear-cut, as there are a number of protected areas that can be accessed. Perhaps the best-known is the Pacaya-Samiria, the largest reserve in Peru.
Many lodges are located on the fringes of the smaller, but equally diverse Tamshiyacu-Tahuayo Regional Conservation Area.
Smaller still is the Allpahuayo-Mishana National Reserve. Despite being 35 times smaller than Pacaya-Samiria, and located close to the city of Iquitos, it has a number of endemic bird species, making it especially popular with birders.
River Types:
While all the waterways in Peru’s Amazonian region flow into the Amazon River and eventually out into the Atlantic Ocean, there are notable differences.
Those that form in the upper regions of the Andes, flow rapidly downhill, picking up top soil and mineral sediments along the way. The minerals include phosphorus, magnesium and calcium, which means the water becomes slightly alkaline.
Despite being brown in colour, these are known as ‘white water’ rivers.
The Tambopata River is one such white water river, as is the Madre de Dios River which meets the Tambopata at Puerto Maldonado.
Amazon ‘white water’ meets ‘black water’.
Rivers that originate in low-lying areas are slow-moving, and pick up a dark hue and acidic PH level from the organic matter that decays in the water. These are known as ‘black water’ rivers, although they are really a deep red in colour.
An example of this type of river is the Tahuayo, which lends its name to the Tahuayo-Tamshiyacu Reserve. The water that forms the Tahuayo starts as rainwater in the swamps of the Reserve.
Nonetheless, many major rivers running through Loreto, such as the Marañon and Ucayali - that meet near Nauta to become the Amazon River - originate in the Andes Mountains and so are classified as white water.
So, while the rivers around Puerto Maldonado are all ‘white water’, the area around Iquitos has both white water and black water rivers.
Eco-Systems:
When comparing the ecologies of each area, the difference in river types is significant.
During the high water season - traditionally December to June - the rivers of Amazonia flood, across a large area of rainforest. Those areas that do not experience this flooding - because they are slightly elevated - are known as terra firme.
The areas that are flooded by white water are called varzea; those flooded by black water are igapo.
The Tambopata Reserve predominantly consists of diverse terra firme and varzea forests.
Jungle of Mirrors in Pacaya-Samiria.
On the other hand, while the rainforest around Iquitos has a variety of eco-systems, it is arguably best known for the extensive igapo forests in Pacaya-Samiria and Tahuayo-Tamshiyaco reserves.
The dark waters here during the high-water season, that infiltrate under the canopy, have led to the name ‘jungle of mirrors’, as the reflections are vivid and atmospheric.
Flora:
Terra firme forests are characterized by tall and sturdy trees, such as the Wild Cashew (Anacardium excelsum), Virola (Virola surinamensis) and Pink Poui (Tabebuia rosea).
The trees in both varzea and igapó have to adapt to periodical and extended inundation. But differences in hydrology, soil composition, and nutrient availability also impact the flora.
Common varzea flora includes hardwood trees like the Brazil nut (Bertholletia excelsa), the Tonka bean (Dipteryx odorata), various Eschweilera species, and palms such as the Aguaje (Mauritia flexuosa). These trees often display adaptations such as buttressed roots and shallow root systems to help stabilize them in the fluctuating water levels. Nonetheless, the canopy can reach heights of up to 40m (130ft), providing a habitat for numerous epiphytes, ferns and vines.
Water hyacinth in Yarapa River, Loreto.
Varzea forests also host a rich understory of shrubs and herbaceous plants that thrive in the nutrient-rich, silt-laden soils that are deposited during flooding.
Seasonal changes significantly influence the plant life in varzea. During the flood season, many trees shed their leaves to conserve resources, while aquatic plants, such as water hyacinth (Eichhornia crassipes), thrive in the standing water.
After the waters recede, the landscape changes, allowing for new growth and a burst of floral activity.
Igapo forests are usually flooded for longer by black water, which is nutrient and oxygen-poor and acidic. So, the trees are usually smaller and have different growth habits, often featuring thinner trunks and flexible branches.
For example, the ceiba tree, which can grow up to 60 m (200 ft) in height and has traditionally been used by locals to make canoes, is not common in igapo forests.
The understory is less diverse compared to varzea, with fewer herbaceous plants due to the prolonged inundation and lower nutrient availability.
Fauna
For the casual naturalist, it is the differences in larger fauna between the various areas that is perhaps most significant. Both areas are noted for their bio-diversity, but there are certain species that are either only present in one area or a lot more prevalent.
Jaguar drinking from white-water river.
Jaguars: you are more likely to see these - and other species of big cat - in the Tambopata region. Whilst they are good swimmers, and will feed on fish and caimans, their preferred habitat is one of dense vegetation, away from human habitation.
River dolphins: you have a great chance of seeing these around Iquitos. They are very rarely seen in and around the Tambopata River, owing to its rapid water flow, narrow channels, and limited prey availability.
Macaws, parrots & parakeets: these can be seen in both areas, but for the sight of hundreds of these impressive birds congregating at a clay lick (kollpa / Collpa), you need to go upstream of Puerto Maldonado, to either Chuncho or Colorodo for example. The faster-flowing Tambopata River has exposed the natural mineral-rich clay banks which both birds and mammals consume for the nutrients and/or to counteract toxins in their diet. It is a spectacular sight
Amazon Giant Otters: these like the quiet waters of oxbow lakes, and can be seen more easily at Cocococha, Tres Chimbadas and Sandoval in Tambopata.
Access:
Great views of Amazonia from plane window.
There is a daily flight from the city of Cusco to Puerto Maldonado that takes about 45 minutes, so it is convenient for those many tourists who visit Machu Picchu and the Inca heartland.
By contrast, to fly to Iquitos from Cusco necessitates changing planes in Lima.
It should be noted, though, that at time of writing, there are daily flights to Iquitos from Tarapoto (and Pucallpa), which work well in combination with visits to the montane rainforest and Chachapoya ruins in Amazonas.
Conclusion:
Both the Tambopata Reserve near Puerto Maldonado and the Amazon around Iquitos boast incredible biodiversity. However, due to differences in geography and ecosystems, they offer slightly different flora and fauna experiences.
Cobalt-Winged Parakeets at Amazon Clay Lick
The Tambopata Reserve is famous for its clay licks, where hundreds of macaws, parrots and parakeets gather to feed, making it an excellent destination for bird watching.
The reserve is also known for its population of Amazon giant otters.
Moreover, you have a better chance of seeing a jaguar in Tambopata, but you still need to be lucky, as they are shy and often nocturnal animals.
On the other hand, the Amazon around Iquitos is renowned for its river dolphins, which can often be spotted in the slower-moving waterways.
If you want to witness the jungle of mirrors created by an extensive black-water flooded forest, then visiting Loreto’s Tahuayo-Tamshiyacu or Pacaya-Samiria reserves is a must.
Finally, if you want all of the above experiences - and more - we suggest you visit both Amazonian regions!
How to visit the Amazon around Puerto Maldonado or Iquitos:
There are numerous lodge options available from both Puerto Maldonado and Iquitos. The lodge staff will meet you at the airport and whisk you into the rainforest where all meals and excursions are included.
Please note that the location of lodges makes a difference as to which ecosystems you will experience, and what wildlife you are likely to see - and in what volume. Ask PeruNorth to explain these distinctions, especially if you have a particular species you would like to see.
If you are interested in the comfort and mobility of a Peruvian Amazon river cruise, these all depart from Iquitos, where the main waterways are sufficiently deep to allow for a ship’s draught.
Amazon River Dolphin in Pacaya-Samiria Reserve.