Roberto and Paola from Turin, Italy got in touch with PeruNorth in February 2023 looking for a 24-day itinerary to take in the archaeological and natural highlights of Northern Peru, along with some time in or around an Amazonian reserve, such as Pacaya-Samiria.
Starting in Trujillo in early August, they drove north to Chiclayo and then headed inland to the Department of Amazonas, to visit the cloud forest, waterfalls and Chachapoya ruins there.
After making the spectacular drive from Leymebamba in and out of the Marañon Valley, they ended this overland section of their trip in Cajamarca.
They then flew to Iquitos in order to spend five nights at Grand Amazon Lodge, before flying back to Lima for their flight home.
Here are their comments about the trip, along with a selection of wonderful photos that they took:
‘In two words, ‘great vacation’ or ‘really satisfied’ ...
What were your favourite cultural destinations in the itinerary … and why?
Not an easy answer. Huaca del Sol y la Luna, Sipan & Tumbas Reales Museum, are places where we really liked.
The Tumbas Reales Museum is breathtaking, all the finds are of exceptional value. Amazing that we were the only non-Peruvian tourists.
A recreation of a Moche ceremony at Lambayeque’s impressive Royal Tombs Museum.
But we have been very surprised too in Karajia and Revash, hidden gems in the middle of nowhere.
Another excellent museum is El Brujo, everything is perfect outside and inside.
Last but not least the Leymebamba Museum with its mummies: if that museum were in Europe or in the U.S.A. I'm sure you could get in only with an online reservation made 6 months before...I think the Government, or whoever on its behalf, ignores the attractiveness of that place.
One of the mummies found at Laguna de los Condores preserved at Leymebamba Museum.
On the other hand, we didn't like Kuelap...because it's still closed, for a strong revamping. [It has since largely reopened - ed.]
The cable car to reach Kuelap is worth the trip!
Our guide took us to Cambolin, an archaeological site on top of a plateau where we could see the round shape houses of the Chachapoya culture.
What were your favourite natural destinations in the itinerary … and why?
Amazon has definitely been our favourite destination, and Yumbilla Falls too.
Amazon has been more over our expectation, wildlife, flowers, places everything great
We really appreciated your suggestion about long sleeves and bandanas, very useful when every minute during our boat and walk excursions a wide range of insects were trying to scan our skin ...
An atmospheric sunset over the Amazon River in Loreto Department.
About Yumbilla I could say the same as the Leymebamba Museum, lack of advertising. The path to the 3 falls is perfect, like a sidewalk.
The day we did the hiking there were 2 maintenance teams, 10 people working ... for 5 tourists met along the way.
We also liked Gocta Fall, everything ran perfectly there.
A view of Gocta Falls taken from the trail to the bottom drop.
Who were your guides? How did they perform?
Both our guides couldn't have perfom better.
Henry is a safe driver and such an enthusiastic guy he can rub off on everyone. We can say he really loves his Country and when he finds people interested in what he explains the trip gets great.
His passion has been one of the axes of our vacation. He helped us see wildlife we never would have noticed on our own in Chaparri and Pomac Wood.
Willy with his endless experience of the Amazon environment made our stay unforgettable.
He is able to see what we would never have seen: birds firstly, a plenty. Then caymans, monkeys, capybaras, sloths, river otters, dolphins and more.
A capybara spotted at night by Willy, a guide at Grand Amazon Lodge.
We have been very lucky to meet those guys extremely knowledgeable, attentive and always listened to what we wanted to see and learn. They helped us see tons of wildlife we never would have noticed on our own.
We have had the opportunity to travel a lot so we can say highly skilled guides make the difference and are not so easy to be found.
In Lima we meet Carlos, a bit on in years, very professional and skilled. It was a pleasure the time with him in Lima. By the way, he speaks Italian very well.
Which was your favourite accommodation and why?
All the accommodations were of a good level, as agreed.
We think to be open minded people, and we're able to understand and match the accommodation according to the place where they are.
In Cuispes we were part of the cozy family [Yumbilla EcoLodge].
The same at Casa de Doña Lola, a truly unique mix of genuine warmth and charming. The owner is a highly informed natural scientist: he explained to us about his private reserve.
Los Faiques was another surprise, large room, beautiful gardens and a relaxing living/dining room to enjoy for our meals.
Casa Morey is a lovely boutique hotel, with so much history. Our room was gigantic, the bathroom was massive, the staff was super nice and we really enjoyed the breakfast too. We were very impressed by the library with the ancient books and maps, it was a trip through time.
The Grand Amazon Lodge is beautiful and in a wonderful place. The staff are really friendly, they all wanted to assure us that we loved the lodge as much as they do.
Rooms are thoroughly insect proof, the entire cabana is netted so you do not have a mosquito net over your bed: very smart! The food is brilliant too.
Their highlights are definitely the boat rides.
Under the greenery is Yanayacu River, a tributary of the mighty Amazon.
We also liked Costa del Sol hotels [Trujillo & Chiclayo] and Gocta Lodge.
I was a little disappointed with La Casona de Leymebamba accommodation. When we arrived the owner wanted to put us in a room with a small queen bed, and by my eye, the roof was a few centimeters higher than me. Henry reported to him our reservation was for a twin bedroom and the owner did his best to set a twin for us quickly.
Room was basic but okay, but no hot water at all: there was no way to make the water heater work, a few meters from the room.
Which was your favourite restaurant / dish / drink?
I can't help you so much with this answer because we're used to taste everything and to eat everything that is put on the pot.
Usually we avoid fish, because we don't like it so much.
I remember a "cabrito" [goat] stew eaten nearby the Pomac Wood.
When in Costa del Sol we appreciated their Paprika Restaurant, good food but so expensive.
Sometimes we try to taste pizza: not one of us likes it a lot, neither in Italy, the home of pizza and In Chiclayo we tasted a pretty good pizza, with Cusquena dorada [a brand of Peruvian beer].
Did you lose or gain weight over the course of the holiday!?
I lost weight, as usual, because at home I'm used to eating pasta twice a day. My metabolism allows me to eat anything in large quantities, the only way not to lose weight (84 kg weight spreaded over 190 cm. ).
What forms of transport did you use?
We used Henry's car, everyday he cleaned it, in and out.
As you remember, we used a tuk-tuk in Iquitos because the Morey staff missed the Airport pick up.
In the Amazon we used motorboats, an excellent way to see the environment.
We also had a problem during the wayback to Iquitos the last day: the engine got broken and we stopped for an hour on the rivers shore, waiting for the spare boat from the lodge.
We arrived at the Airport just in time...
Did your itinerary involve any hiking? How would you rate it in terms of difficulty?
The two hikings (Yumbilla and Gocta Falls) were both beautiful.
The way back from Gocta was a big effort: the climb towards the lodge seemed endless.
No problem in Yumbilla, except the rain at the beginning of the path, 20 minutes in all.
Two of the five drops of Yumbilla Falls, near Cuispes, Amazonas
What was the most pointless item in your luggage!?
A heavy warm fleece, for both.
We usually travel quite light in terms of luggage, even if whoever brought our bags probably thought the opposite...because we prefer a few more shoes, for both.
What were your favourite natural encounters?
Impossible to answer, we love all the animals in the world, my wife not so much the spiders... and when she saw the tarantula in the Amazon she wasn't very happy.
Surely, the best sightings were the Andean Bear and Horned Screamer bird.
Grumpy-looking Spectacled (Andean) Bear at Chaparri Reserve.
Did you suffer any insect bites? Other physical discomforts?
No, none
Did you have much interaction with locals? Where and how did this occur?
We didn't interact so much, sometimes we spoke to some local people along the paths or at the archeological sites and museums.
As I wrote, we haven't met many people during the whole journey.
Generally speaking, the Peruvian are friendly but, mostly on the mountains, they are not very chatty. Much easier was in Trujillo and Chiclayo.
Did you feel your money was going to local businesses and people?
We think so, mostly in the mountains, where Henry paid cash for the accommodations in Cuispes, Nuevo Tingo, Leymebamba.
All the lunches included from Chaparri to Celendin were paid in cash by Henry.
The road from Leymebamba to Celendin traverses Marañon Canyon.
Were you given any information regarding sustainability during the course of your trip?
Yes, we talked a lot with our guides regarding sustainability, environmentally correct behaviours, on what the Peruvian Government is doing to reduce the pollution, and so on.
It was a pleasure talking to them because both are true conservationists, with children, and so deeply intent on protecting the environment for the future.
Did you notice any areas where environmental practices could be improved?
To be honest no, we didn't notice places where trash was along the roads, except near El Brujo and on the Huanchaco sidewalks.
In Italy, France, Spain and Germany things are much worse...